France, a land of winemaking excellence, is brimming with often little-known treasures. Forgotten wines, made from ancient grape varieties, bear witness to a unique wine heritage rich in history. These wines, neglected in favor of the great vintages, are coming back to the fore thanks to enthusiasts.
Why have certain French wines fallen into oblivion?
Several factors have contributed to the abandonment of certain grape varieties and wines.
1. The ravages of phylloxera
In the XIXᵉ century, phylloxera destroyed much of France's vineyards. Certain grape varieties, deemed unproductive, were replaced by more resistant and profitable varieties.
2. Taste standardization
The rise of grands crus and standardized wines has eclipsed wines with atypical profiles. Local grape varieties, often considered too singular, have lost their popularity.
3. Economic change
With industrialization, small-scale family production declined. Lesser-known wine regions were relegated to the background.
Ancient grape varieties: a wealth to be rediscovered
1. Pineau d'Aunis
Originally from the Loire region, this grape variety produces light, spicy wines, perfect for white meat dishes or mature cheeses.
- Caractéristiques: Notes of pepper, red fruit and good acidity.
- Region: Loire Valley.
2. Le Tressallier
Grown in the Allier region, this rare white variety produces fresh, mineral wines.
- Caractéristiques: Aromas of citrus fruit and white flowers.
- Pairings: Seafood, grilled fish.
3. The Romorantin
This unique Loire grape variety is used to produce the wine of the Cour-Cheverny appellation.
- Caractéristiques: Good acidity, apple and honey aromas with great ageing potential.
- Goes well with: Roast poultry, light sauces.
4. Carignan
Long reviled, this grape variety from the South of France is making a strong comeback thanks to winemakers who are making the most of its potential.
- Caractéristiques: Notes of cherry, liquorice and a fine tannic structure.
- Region: Languedoc-Roussillon.
Regions to explore to find these forgotten wines
1. The Loire Valley
This region is a veritable sanctuary for ancient grape varieties. Appellations such as Cour-Cheverny and Jasnières offer rare, authentic wines.
2. Jura
Jura is famous for its unique wine heritage, with grape varieties such as Savagnin and Poulsard.
- Wine characteristics: Freshness, aromatic complexity and longevity.
3. The southwest
This region abounds in native grape varieties such as Fer Servadou and Prunelard, which produce intense, atypical wines.
4. Savoy
Savoie offers fresh, Alpine wines, often made from rare grape varieties such as Mondeuse or Jacquère.
Why rediscover these forgotten wines?
1. Preserving our wine heritage
By choosing these wines, you contribute to the preservation of ancestral know-how and to the diversity of French viticulture.
2. Exploring unique aromatic profiles
Older grape varieties offer atypical flavors, far from the taste standards of international varieties.
3. Supporting small producers
These wines are often produced by passionate winemakers who value their terroir.
4. Surprise your guests
Serving a forgotten wine at the table is an original way to share discoveries with friends and family.
Perfect pairings for these forgotten wines
1. With traditional dishes
Forgotten wines go perfectly with regional dishes, often from the same terroirs.
- Example: A Pineau d'Aunis with a rillettes tart or free-range poultry.
2. With modern dishes
These wines also find their place in creative cuisine.
- Example: A Carignan is the ideal accompaniment to a spicy vegetarian dish.
3. With mature cheeses
Older grape varieties, often rich in acidity and complexity, sublimate powerful cheeses.
- Example: A Savagnin du Jura with a Comté cheese aged for 24 months.
How do you find and taste these forgotten wines?
1. Visit specialized wine shops
Independent wine merchants often offer a selection of forgotten wines from small-scale production.
2. Participate in wine fairs
These events showcase winemakers committed to preserving ancient grape varieties.
3. Explore local domains
Visit wine-growing regions to meet producers and discover their hidden treasures.
4. Temperature and service
Respect the temperature recommendations to reveal the unique aromas of these wines.
Current trends in forgotten wines
More and more winemakers are turning to ancient grape varieties to meet the growing demand for authentic, natural wines. Consumers are looking for unique experiences and environmentally-friendly products.
Forgotten wines fit perfectly into this trend, often produced organically or biodynamically. Lesser-known appellations are gaining in popularity, attracting the attention of wine lovers in search of something new.
Conclusion: rediscover France's wine heritage
Forgotten wines are more than just curiosities. They embody the richness of France's wine heritage and offer an incomparable taste experience. By rediscovering these ancient grape varieties, you are supporting sustainable viticulture and helping to preserve a precious heritage. Take the time to explore these treasures and enrich your cellar with these nuggets.
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